After a very warm evening in William Creek and a nice pub meal, we got up at 5:30am and headed off to the western edge of Lake Eyre north at Halligan’s Bay and ABC Bay. The Dog stayed in the camper and had a nice quiet sleep-in.
It was 65km of rocky, sandy, corrugated track with some deep potholes full of limestone powder. But we were rewarded with a glorious sunrise over a lunar landscape. ABC Bay was very dry and salty and so we trekked on to Halligan’s Bay. The lake seems to go on forever and over the horizon: an incredible inland sea. The water was cold when we dipped our feet in and walked out. Our pilot from the scenic flight mentioned that over 200km the fall of the land is only 5cm so the bottom of the lake seems very flat with minimal change in water level over the distance we walked from the shore.
Back on land and the flies were friendly as the sun continued to rise. The rocky track took us back towards William Creek. On the way, we were amazed to see a very thin and hungry dingo stalking a herd of cattle. While the cattle looked very well fed and watered, the dingo looked gaunt with her skeleton very visible. Baiting for dingoes and other pests is done in the area and so she was the first live dingo we had seen. Suprisingly she started to approach the car but stopped about 150m away. Silently we watched and waited to see what she would do next. Many of the cattle had put themselves into the open yards and we wondered if this was the work of the dingo or the cattle. Another vehicle approached from the other direction and disturbed her – she slinked away of the hill. As we drove on we saw her hiding over the crest of the hill watching us, the other vehicle and the cattle…
William Creek Road
More corrugations, rocks, and magical pinks, reds, greens and browns. We hear people say the landscape is boring and repetitive; it’s just the opposite – so many colours reflected in so many different lights. We loved it.
A quick detour to Lake Cadi and we found plenty of water and a great shady campsite for future ref. The Dog loved the smell of the salt water and seemed tempted to swim. He was very happy to be out of the car and stretching his legs. On the way in to Lake Cadi we passed this amazing eagle’s nest. It was HUGE and we assumed used every season, although there was no sign of birds while we were watching.
Dusty, dry, hot and the whackiest place we have visited! Half the town lives in underground ‘dug-outs’ that are dug into the side of the hill and we assume become the entry point to the hundreds or thousands of little opal mines. The town was nothing special with some obvious social dysfunction but quirky, whacky and weird at the same time. An overnight stop, a bit of a look around and then back on the black top.